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Napoleonic Artillery Train
Casting & Assembly Instructions
Introduction
Silicone
rubber molds will produce beautifully detailed metal
figures of exceptional high quality.
The mold cavities
containing small parts and spoke wheels are difficult to
fill and may require that you do the following to
improve your results:
1.Heat casting metal to a
temperature of 615 deg. F. If our small stove is used
you can reach this temperature by allowing the metal to
heat for 10 minutes or so after it has melted in the
pot. The stove will not raise the metal to a higher
temperature which is important as you could burn the
molds if the metal is raised to 680 deg. F or more.To
ensure correct pouring temperatures, use 750 deg. F
Thermometer, #90011
2. Liberal venting of the
mold to the outside and from one channel to the other
wherever needed. A safety razor blade is the best tool
for cutting the necessary V-groove vents. The venting
process is described on your silicone mold instruction
sheet.
3. Use of a
high content tin or pure tin casting metal which has
excellent flow properties. We sell pure tin bars (.25
lb.) for $2.25 each.
Casting Instructions
Prepare the rubber molds
for casting as indicated on the silicone rubber mold
instruction sheet.
Open the molds shortly
after the metal has frozen and break off the sprue. If
you wait until the casting has cooled you will have to
saw the sprue off which is hard work and time consuming.
Partially filled
spokes in the wheel cavity
can
usually be corrected or considerably improved by venting
the molds properly and casting with a high tin content
metal. If small gaps in the cannon or limber wheel still
persist they can be filled with a thickening mixture of
5-minute epoxy or "Green Stuff". Fill in the spoke gaps
with the partially hardened material and when dry sand
to shape.
The
wheel cavities will fill
much
easier with a high tin (Or pure tin) content casting
metal (as is the case with all hard to fill molds).
Sink holes
or small pits on the horses or figures can easily be
filled with Das Pronto air drying clay or FastSteel
Epoxy Putty. Allow the filler to harden and then sand
smooth.
Assembly of
Cannon Carriage
Clean all flashing off
the parts cast in molds SR#51, 52, and 53.
Parts from
SR51. Using a rat tail (round) file or small pin vise
drill open all the holes in the linstocks, limber
carriage, limber pole, and hubs. Drill open the 2 pintle
mount holes on the limber carriage.
Parts
from SR52.
Drill
open the 4 trunnion cannon carriage pivot holes. File
down the cannon pivot so it can be driven through the
cannon and pivot holes. Drill open the pivot hole in the
cannon barrel. Drill 2 small holes in the cannon barrel
and glue in place the loose gun handle.
Parts
from SR53.
Drill
open the cannon wheels, limber wheels, and linstock
holes.
Clean the
hubs and bucket of excess flashing. (The hubs which are
positioned on the limber and cannon wheels were used to
pull the carriage forward or in retreat by ropes
attached to them and pulled by the foot soldiers.)
Assemble the
parts shown in figure #5. A light weight chain for
connecting the limber pole and linstocks as shown in
illustration may be obtained from a hobby or jewelry
store.
Horse &
Limber Connection. Refer to figure #6 which will
indicate how the horses are connected to linstocks. The
horse ropes can be made by twisting a fine gauge wire
and pressed into small holes drilled in the horse
harness and horse body.
Figure 6 is
an actual reproduction of the draught horse's harness
although these exact details could not be copied exactly
in metal casting. They are being presented for your
observation.
Details of
draught horse harness. (A) Rear horse of team left side,
driven. (B) Bridle of right hand, rear horse. Otherwise
identical with A. (C) Bridle of driven horse. Lead rope
could be replaced by a leather rein and attached at a
ring on the side of the halter. (D) Front view of
halter. (E) Harness for lead horse. Identical each side
except that the left hand horse was driven and carried a
saddle. (F) Details of harness for shaft horse (eg. on
wagon or light ambulance). Rear horse shown, lead horse
harness as E.
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