miniaturemolds.com

MAKE YOUR OWN MOLD WITH

QUICK-SIL, QUICK CURING RTV
"A new and fantastic RTV putty for fast and easy mold making"

It will last for 1,000's of uses and can with stand metal temperatures up to 900†F without being damaged.
See how simple a Making a Mold with Quick-Sil and our #5002 Adjustable Wood Frame Mold Press is.

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MAKE YOUR OWN SILICONE RUBBER MOLD

IN LESS THAN 20 MINUTES

AT A COST OF ONLY $20.00
(based on making 2molds from the $40 2lb. Quick-Sil package)

Sounds incredible doesn’t it? Now it is possible with this wonderful new mold making material to make perfect replica molds of figurines, coins, sculpted parts (great for model repairs), etc. in minutes. The perfect product for existing mold making hobbyists and for those that have never made a mold but have figures or objects they want to reproduce.

Quick-SilÆ is a two-part room temperature, very clean vulcanizing (RTV) silicone molding putty, that produces a good, strong, long lasting rubber mold, handling casting metal temperatures up to 800 degrees with zero % shrinkage. When cured the mold is extremely flexible with an incredibly high resistance to tearing allowing the removal of figures with limited undercuts without damaging the mold.

Quick-SilÆ is safe, non-hazardous and non-toxic.

Quick-SilÆ is easy to use - merely mix an equal amount of parts of A and B and knead the materials thoroughly by hand. Working time is 2-4 minutes depending on the room and putty temperature. Placement of the mixed material and model in our #5002 Adjustable Wood Mold Frame Press assures optimum results in only 15 minutes. There is no need to measure precisely in order to achieve good results.

A perfect mold in only 20 minutes at a cost of $20.00* is hard to believe, but it’s true!

That means you can make two molds from each 2 lb. kit (or more if your molds are to be smaller). Original models may be painted (paint will not be affected), and made of plastic, Super Sculpey, ceramic, wood or metal as no heat is required for vulcanization. The material has a shelf life of up to 2 years even after opened.

You may adjust our mold frame to accommodate different size masters, however, if you construct your own frame the material needs to be properly confined under some pressure allowing the air bubbles to be driven out. Complete instructions provided.

*This adjustable frame allows you to form molds from 1" sq. to 7"x 5" W x 3" D Also highly recommended for Liquid RTV 20600 & 20700

 CASTALDO Quick-SilÆ INSTRUCTIONS

Quick-SilÆ is two-part room temperature vulcanizing (RTV) silicone molding putty that produces strong, long-lasting rubber molds for metal casting with 0% shrinkage. Quick-SilÆ is safe, non-hazardous and non-toxic.

 Quick-SilÆ is easy to use — merely mix equal parts of part A and part B by hand. There is no need to measure precisely in order to achieve optimum results.

Working time: 2 to 4 minutes.

Cure time: Approximately 15 minutes

- NEW! -ITEM# 5000
0% Shrinkage RTV!
In Only 15 Minutes!

 CastaldoÆ Quick-Sil™
STRONG, Long-Lasting Silicone Rubber Molds

INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING A MOLD WITH A FIGURE HAVING A STRAIGHT PARTING LINE WITHOUT SEVERE UNDERCUTS.

We suggest that if is the first time you use Quick-SilÆ that you experiment making a mold of a small object such as a coin or 25mm figure. Read the following instructions thoroughly, then mix a small amount of the part A & B as per the instructions below. Cover the mold with a wood or masonite blank and apply downward pressure with your hand to promote proper curing(use of 2 c-clamps will also work well and will avoid the need for holding the mold for 15 minutes). This will give you a good idea of the ability of the material to pick up detail, the working and curing time.

IMPORTANT: Measure out the approximate amount of material you will need to make both sides of the mold. Because Quick-SilÆ produces finished molds in a short time, the acceptable working time is also very short. This requires the development of a rapid technique of mixing and preparation of a mold frame so that the working time is not exceeded..

The easiest way to achieve this is to make thin pancakes of part A and part B on a tabletop or similar work surface (Figure 2). Once the two pancakes are formed, place one on top of the other (Figure 3) and then mix them rapidly by pushing down on your thumbs (Figure 4), kneading with both hands or rolling between the palms of your hands, (Figure 5) or any combination of these techniques.

Press the mixed rubber compound into a mold frame (one that you have constructed or our Vulc-a-Mold tool) press the model into the rubber to its approximate parting line, quickly grease the surface with the CASTALDO mold release cream, and then cover the model with more rubber compound, see Figure 6. Insert the molding putty in one cavity, insert the model, fill the opposing cavity with putty, and apply a coating of CASTALDO mold release cream to all surfaces and clamp closed.) A mold press, clamp or heavy weight is essential to ensuring that air bubbles will be driven out of the mold.

 
ADVANCED MOLDMAKING INSTRUCTIONS, for figures with undercuts requiring
mold build up.

After you have become completely familiar with the process of making molds having a straight parting line without severe undercuts you can advance to the more difficult mold making projects.

FLAT TOP MOLDS (Open face)- are made when the model is sunk completely in one half of the mold and the parting line is produced on the model’s top surface. This type of mold can only be made with a model having either a flat top or bottom surface, with absolutely no undercuts on the sides. Talc the mold press cavity. Mix Quick-SilÆ putties per instructions and press into mold frame or one Vulc-A-Mold cavity until level with the frame surface. Apply mold release cream to putty surface and press in model. Cover (metal sheet or plywood) and weight down.

BUILD-UP MOLDS- are made when using non-uniform (not symmetrical shape models). These are the most difficult types of molds to make because of the unequal parting line required. A moldmaker will develop an appreciation for the parting line and undercuts through experience and probably several mistakes. We will attempt to describe a technique to follow, but experience will be the best teacher.

1) You will find that it is most important to determine where the parting line of your model is. For assistance take a washable felt tip pen and draw the parting line on the model until you become familiar enough to visualize the line.

2) Knead the clay until it becomes more supple then press a layer in the mold frame or a Vulc-A-Mold cavity. Press the model into the clay down to the desired parting line but do not press it all the way through the layer of clay. Add or build up the clay around the model up to its parting line. Do not cover the model above its parting line or you will wind up with a casting that is partially encapsulated. If this happens you would need to cut a slit in the area of encapsulation to remove a poured casting from the mold.

3) Press in the 2 cap nut mold locators supplied. Locate these on opposite sides (one above and one below) of the model. Grease the clay and model with mold release cream.

4) Measure out equal parts of Quick-SilÆ parts A & B. Use enough material to slightly over fill the cavity. Quickly mix and knead the material thoroughly. Press the mixed putty into the other Vulc-A-Mold cavity or your built up mold frame. Squeeze the Vulc-A-Mold lid down, pressing out excess material. Then weight down the lid. The excess material and air will flow out of the tool. Do not lock the frame with the hex screws. If you are using your own mold frame you must cover the Quick-SilÆ with a weighted down tightly fitting lid.

5) After your first half of the mold is made. Reverse the process by removing the clay and replacing it with the vulcanized mold. Place the model in the cavity, grease with mold release cream and mix the remaining necessary Quick-SilÆ to produce the second half of your mold. After your mold is completed you may cut in a pouring gate. It is extremely important that the blade of your cutting tool be very sharp to prevent ragged cuts. Depending on the size of your models more than one model may be placed in each mold.

PROBLEM SOLVING HINTS

If you notice creases, fold lines or "knit lines" in the cured mold, you have exceeded the working time and the mold has begun to cure before the mold was fully packed. The cure rate for Quick-SilÆ is affected by small changes in temperature. Warm hands will cause shortened work time and cure time. Note that the more vigorously you mix part A and part B, the more heat will be generated in the rubber itself reducing the working and cure time.

Also, note that placing Quick-SilÆ in cold mold frames will result in longer cure times. You can warming the mold frame to 90-degree F before beginning the process to speed up cure time.

Problem: Cause, Solution

Rubber too soft: Improper mix ratio. Mix equal parts A & B.

Rubber cures to slowly: Rubber or frame too cold. Allow rubber to warm to room temperature; mix more vigorously. Also, you can warm mold frame slightly.

Air bubbles in finished mold: Mold not pressed during curing.  Press rubber in mold press during curing.

Oil forms on surface of mold: This is normal and not a problem. Wipe off oil before casting.

[QUICK-SIL]   [LIQUID RTV]  [VULC-A-MOLD]

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