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CASTING INSTRUCTIONS
BEFORE CASTING READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS
COMPLETELY
AND FOLLOW THEM CAREFULLY.
Metal casting is not intended for use by
children. It is an adult hobby and should be
treated as such.
PRECAUTIONS:
1.
Work in a well ventilated area.
2.
Never add water to hot metal or work in an area
where water may splash into the hot metal.
3.
Keep all liquids away from the casting process.
4.
Make certain the molds are dry and free of any
moisture before pouring.
5. Use
of eye glasses or goggles and gloves is always
recommended.
6. The
mold and stove should be placed on a metal
plate or non-flammable, heat resistant pad to
catch any surplus metal that may flow out of the
mold while pouring and prevent any possible heat
damage to your work table.
7.
Keep the stove cord from dangling down off the
work table to prevent getting tangled in it, and
pulling the hot stove and casting metal off the
work table. Also, keep the ladle handle from
hanging out over the work table.
8.
Wash your hands after working with the metals
and before handling any food.
CASTING METAL MOLDS:
Follow Above PRECAUTIONS!
Check to see if the metal molds are clean and
free of any greasy substance. Mold handles
should be used on the metal molds. They are
threaded onto the screw located on the back side
of each mold. Always wear heavy duty gloves for
protection when handling hot molds and pouring
metal.
We
suggest that you blacken the metal molds with
our Mold Blacking Spray (MS13), or soot from a
candle flame or alcohol lamp (do not use this
technique with the silicone rubber molds). For
additional lubrication, use Extra Fine Graphite
Powder (MS22) for optimum lubrication after the
metal mold has been blackened.
When
using graphite powder, work over a
protected area as graphite is very dirty.
To apply graphite powder,
dust the mold with the graphite lubricant and
rub the powder into the mold with your finger to form
a grease like coating. Tap off any excess
powder. A metal mold must first be sprayed
with Mold Blacking Spray before the graphite
powder will stick.
This
process will aid in obtaining a fully poured
figure and in the release of the casting. An
unblackened mold will not permit the metal to
flow properly. Next pre-heat the mold by making
one or two practice pours.
TO
CLAMP METAL MOLDS:
Insert the mold into the metal mold clamp we
supply or clamp with a C-clamp. Some old molds
made prior to 1945 are very thick and need to be
clamped with a C-clamp and placed on a flat
metal plate to form the bottom of the cast
figure. Be sure to place a protective pad under
your work area to protect against any metal
spills, leaks or run off.
CASTING SILICONE
RUBBER MOLDS
Follow Above PRECAUTIONS!
For Silicone Rubber Molds, use Extra Fine
Graphite Powder (MS22) for optimum lubrication
or talcum powder as a second choice. This
process will aid in obtaining a fully poured
figure and in the release of the casting. An
unblackened mold will not permit the metal to
flow properly. Clap the molds together to remove
any loose powder.
Position the masonite board mold supports on the
outside of each mold half. The mold should be
clamped in at least two positions with spring
clamps for best results. Some molds may require
clamps in all four corners.
While others you may have to lighten up on the
mold clamp force due to crushing the mold and
keeping the metal from filling the mold. You can
do this by eliminating the spring clamp and
holding the mold securely with a rubber band or
use a rubber band to counter the spring clamp by
wrapping it around the clamp handles. Be careful
when doing this as the mold may tend to leak,
especially if it has been poured several times
and has temporarily warped by the heat of the
casting metal. Be certain to work over a
protected area.
Pour
the metal quickly into the mold, fill to the
top. Rubber molds tend to swell when hot (even
when clamped). We have found that squeezing the
molds together with your hands after pouring and
tamping the mold down gently at the same time
helps improve the detail and reduce the flashing
around the figure. Always wear gloves when
pouring and holding the mold. Allow mold to set
for at least 1 minute.
After
several pours, rubber molds expand from
excessive heat build-up and may leak. If you
cannot stop leakage by clamping and squeezing
the mold, allow mold to cool.
Properly handled, the rubber molds will give you
long and continuous use. Since rubber is not as
good a conductor of heat as metal the rubber
molds retain the heat of the hot metal longer
than a metal mold. Continuous rapid pouring can
overheat and burn a rubber mold.
To
facilitate the casting of complete figures in
the new rubber molds some of the figure
components may have been gated off to a side
(arms, weapons, etc.). These figures will
require some assembly such as gluing or
drilling.
Release the figure bending the rubber mold
slightly if necessary.
TO
PREPARE METAL FOR CASTING:
If
you are using the small casting stove we supply
or the Hot Pot 2 place the metal ingot in the
ladle and allow it to heat for at least 15
minutes after the metal has melted. It will
take about 15 minutes for the metal to melt but
you must not pour it yet.The metal will not
overheat in these two stoves regardless of how
long you keep heating it.
You
could use your own gas or electric kitchen
stove, however, you must be careful not to allow
the metal to be heated over 650 degrees F or you
will damage the metal molds. The metal molds are
made of a zinc alloy "Zymac" which will start
melting at 680 degrees F.
Please note that our small electric stove may
smoke quite heavily for about the first 15
minutes of use. Do not be alarmed as it is the
industrial oils on the metal parts vaporizing.
Another important thing to remember is that . If
you have poured the metal to soon and not
allowed it to heat up to its best pouring
temperature you will not obtain a fully poured
figure.
It is
not recommended to use a torch or other flame
source to raise the metal to a higher
temperature as this could damage your molds. If
you choose to use a different stove or heat
source to melt your metal, item #90011, Casting
Metal Thermometer, is an excellent tool to have
on hand.
To
Check the temperature without a thermometer, you
can dip a used wooden match stick into the
molten metal for about 5 seconds to test the
temperature. If the stick smokes excessively it
indicates that the metal has been overheated
which can cause damage to the mold and a bad
casting. Allow the metal to cool so that the
match stick smokes only slightly.
Do not
use pure lead, pot metal, or tire weights as a
casting metal without adding 10% tin by weight
as these metals have too high a melting
temperature to flow acceptably at 650 degrees F.
If you attempt to use these metals by using a
different heat source you will damage the molds.
Pure
tin is the best material for pouring figures. It
has better flow characteristics and figures made
from pure tin can be bent into different
positions without breaking. However, due to the
record high price for tin this metal is not
practical to use. Whenever pure tin or a high
tin alloy can be used it is recommended.
Overheating the metal produces a frosted figure.
Although this type of figure loses some detail
it does provide a better surface for the paint
to adhere to.
If the
small black stove (MS1) made by Castings fails
to work at any time after the one year warranty
you may return it to us with $6.00 to cover the
cost of repair, return postage & handling.
During the first year you may return it for
repair free of charge.
TO CLEAN AND
DECORATE FIGURES:
Break off, snip and scrape all excess metal from
the figures. File smooth the parting lines. Each
figure should be wiped clean with vinegar or
naval jelly to remove any oil or grease from
your fingers prior to priming and painting.
This
cleaning affords a much better surface on which
the paint will hold.
When
the figure is clean brush on or spray a coat of
metal primer. Our gray, white or black primers
work best with the metal figures prior to
painting. Decorate the figure with paints
developed for metal miniatures. If you are
casting with pewter check our pewter instruction
sheet.
We
offer a 55 page booklet "Helpful Hints For
Casting And Painting Miniature Figures" (MS48)
which covers many topics of interest to the
miniature hobbyist. See our supply list for the
booklet information.
Suggestions for best filing results and care of
files:
Files should be
moved across the surface of the metal in
one direction only. When the stroke is
completed the file should be lifted and returned
for another pass across the metal. Pulling the
file backwards across the metal dulls the
cutting surface quickly
Files should never be laid one on top of
another, allowed to touch or be touched with the
fingers. Moisture, dust and skin oils collect
dirt reducing their effectiveness and life.
Files rubbed with blackboard chalk will not clog
easily with metal particles. When the cutting
surfaces of a file are clogged with metal they
can be cleaned by pushing a short section of
copper wire across the file in the same
direction as the cuts. This pushes the metal out
of the serrations.
After casting you might want to
leave the sprue in place and not cut it off the
figure at this time. It will be a good place to
hold while working and polishing. If you use the
alligator clips of a Helping Hands Tool it also
is a good holding place. If this is practical
cut the sprue off when work on the casting is
completed.
Surface pits in the metal or sink depressions
can be filled with new material soldered in
place, then ground out smooth (refer to
soldering instructions).
At
this time any detailing should be done. Adding
detail with the use of a Dremel Power Tool and
flexible shaft with various burs, cutting or
sanding attachments can produce professional,
quality results. Using a Dremel, you can add or
alter the detail of casting, make conversions of
body parts and weapons, add muscular features to
horses, change facial detail or even make folds
in clothing. If you intend to use power
equipment for detailing please refer to the
directions given with your power tool for its
use.
To
reposition arms, legs, and heads, try the
following:
Using a razor
saw, jewelers saw or Dremel tool with a saw
attachment cut part way through. Do not
completely cut of f the part.
To bend an arm,
saw out a notch 95 deg., angle on inside of the
elbow bend the arm inward. To straighten an arm
cut a slit in the inside of elbow and then bend
it outward.
For
turning a head, cut through outside all around,
leaving about 1/8" core, then gently twist the
part.
Brush all the holes or seams with flux and then
fill with solder or FastSteel.
HAVING DIFFICULTY IN
OBTAINING FULLY POURED FIGURES?
THE FOLLOWING SHOULD
HELP.
Metal casting does not always produce perfect
figures. Even commercially made die cast or
spin cast figures do not always come out just
right, but you never see them as they are put
back in the pot and cast over.
The
most important factors in obtaining fully poured
figures are:
1. Use a high tin content casting
metal, 10% tin should be minimum,
(CM2). While 65% tin is optimum, (CM4) having
the lowest melting point of the tin/lead
alloys. If the metal you may have is
primarily lead or an unknown lead alloy, then at
least 10% tin by weight should be added. Pure
lead has too high a melting temperature (620
degrees F) to be used successfully with our
molds. 100% tin (CM5) can be obtained directly
from our company.
The
best pouring metals for difficult to fill molds
are our CM3 or CM4 (50% tin) and our PS1 (91%
tin, lead free) Pewter ingots.
2. Raise the temperature of the
casting metal to the maximum allowable
temperature without damaging the molds (570-650
degrees F). Use our casting thermometer (#90011)
to eliminate the guess work. TO reach the proper
pouring temperature you must allow the metal to
heat at least 15 Minutes after melting before
pouring the mold. If you do not have a casting
thermometer and are still experiencing
problems, some hard to fill molds need the
metal to heat up to 1 hour before pouring. Doing
this will almost guarantee a perfectly cast
figure.
3. Dust the rubber or metal molds
with the graphite lubricant (MS22)
Rub the powder into the mold with your finger to form a
grease like coating. Tap off any excess powder.
To apply graphite powder to a metal mold
requires it first be sprayed with Mold Blacking
Spray (MS13).
4. As a last resort, carefully cut a
vent. If you are still having
difficulty there might be an air blockage
preventing metal from flowing to a particular
channel. A shallow V-shaped vent can be cut,
slanted away and up from the farthest point in
the channel
where metal is not filling,
to the outside of the mold.
This
will allow the metal to push the air out the
vent when pouring and fill the cavity.
During the pour you will see some metal come out
this vent and know the cavity is now full. The
small piece of metal filling this channel is
easily trimmed when the figure is released.
It is very important when cutting a rubber mold
that only a very sharp pen knife be used.
If
the metal just dribbles through the pouring gate
you might need to enlarge the pouring gate hole
with a file or Dremel tool on metal molds or a
pen knife on silicone molds.
5. With rubber molds you might also try
lightening up on the mold clamp force.
You can do this by eliminating the spring clamp
and holding the mold securely with a rubber band
or use a rubber band to counter the spring clamp
by wrapping it around the clamp handles. Be
careful when doing this as the mold may tend to
leak, especially if it has been poured several
times and has temporarily warped by the heat of
the casting metal. Be certain to work over a
protected area. |
